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--- guides:elektrosluchminicity [2016/11/02 12:37] – mrkva
+++ guides:elektrosluchminicity [2017/10/02 16:12] – [Building guide] mrkva
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 ====== Building Elektrosluch Mini City ======
+//Updated 2. 10. 2017: Step 17//
 {{:guides:esluch_mini_city.jpg?nolink|}}
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 [[http://youtu.be/J5Sb21qbpEQ | Soldering Tutorial Part by EEVblog Part 1]] & [[http://youtu.be/fYz5nIHH0iY|Part 2]]
+You can check the [[https://github.com/LOM-instruments/Elektrosluch-Mini-City/blob/master/hardware/elektrosluch_mini_city.pdf|schematic]] on our github, if you need to.
 ===== Required tools =====
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+<WRAP half column>{{https://raw.githubusercontent.com/LOM-instruments/Elektrosluch-Mini-City/master/photo/tutorial/Elektrosluch_Mini_City_guide-2.jpg?direct&600}}</WRAP>
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+<WRAP half column>{{https://raw.githubusercontent.com/LOM-instruments/Elektrosluch-Mini-City/master/photo/tutorial/Elektrosluch_Mini_City_guide-3.jpg?direct&600}}</WRAP>
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-. **Continue with the socket for the integrated circuit.** Note its orientation, marked by the little U-shaped cutout. This cutout should be pointed to the top. Using a socket is good practice when dealing with chips - it allows you to swap the chip for another one for altering the performance of the circuit, and protects the chip from damage during the soldering stage.
+. Continue with the yellow **ceramic capacitors** marked as 100 (10 pF). These will help to protect the circuit from very high frequencies beyond the audible range and oscillations. These are not polarity sensitive.</WRAP></WRAP>
-Solder one pin first then check if the socket is placed snugly to the circuit board. If not heat the solder back up and realign, it would be much hard to do so after soldering all of the pins.</WRAP></WRAP>
 <WRAP group>
-<WRAP half column>{{https://raw.githubusercontent.com/LOM-instruments/Elektrosluch-Mini/master/photo/tutorial/postup_0003.jpg?direct&600}}</WRAP>
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-. Then the yellow **ceramic capacitors** marked as 470 (47 pF). These will help to protect the circuit from very high frequencies beyond the audible range and oscillations. These are not polarity sensitive.</WRAP></WRAP>
+. Push the **potentiometer** onto the board until it snaps into place and solder it in.</WRAP>
+</WRAP>
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+<WRAP half column>{{https://raw.githubusercontent.com/LOM-instruments/Elektrosluch-Mini-City/master/photo/tutorial/Elektrosluch_Mini_City_guide-6.jpg?direct&600}}</WRAP>
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-. **Now you can solder in the 4 pink polypropylene capacitors.** These will limit low frequency pick-up. These capacitors are also not polarized. Also if you decide that you would like to have bit more bass, you can replace these with higher values (for example 10 μF instead of 2.2 μF).</WRAP>
+. **Solder in the four polymer capacitors.** Beware of their polarity, minus (-) is marked by the pink color stripe and plus (+) is marked on the circuit board! Double check you are soldering them in correctly, it isn't easy to desolder them. You can use the photo as a reference.</WRAP>
 </WRAP>
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-. **Solder in the two electrolytic capacitors.** Beware of their polarity, minus (-) is marked on the body and plus (+) is marked on the circuit board! Double check you are soldering them in correctly, it isn't easy to desolder them.</WRAP>
+. Remove the protective film from the sticky pads on the "antennae" of the circuit board and **place the inductors** as pictured. Solder them in.</WRAP>
 </WRAP>
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-. **Put the knob on the potentiometer** (notice the "D-shaped" shaft). Then push it gently onto the board until it snaps into place and solder it in.
+. Prepare your **LED**. If you want it to appear as on the photos (as a city light above the street), shape it as pictured. Be careful about the polarity – longer lead is ⊕ (positive).</WRAP>
-. Next **place the double sided sticky pads on the "antennae"** at the top of the circuit board as pictured.</WRAP>
 </WRAP>
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-. **Place the inductors**, so they are held by the sticky pads. Solder them in.</WRAP>
+. Solder in the **LED**.</WRAP>
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-. **Pop-in the integrated circuit chip into the socket.** Make sure you're placing it with the U shaped cutout towards to the antennae, as pictured. It might be necessary to change the angle of its legs so they fit snuggly. You can realign them easily by pressing them against a table.</WRAP>
+. (Optional) Pre-tin the leads of the battery connector with solder.</WRAP>
 </WRAP>
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-. **Solder in the LED.** Use the provided heat-shrink tubing to cover the LED legs. **The longer leg goes into to the right side hole.** Once placed, bend the LED as you see fit.
+. Pull the wires through the hole next to the potentiometer as pictured and solder them in. This will act as a strain relief for the connection. The red lead goes to the plus and black to the minus.</WRAP>
+</WRAP>
-. **Solder the battery connector in place as pictured.** You can use the provided holes to pull the wires through – this will act as a strain relief for the connection. The red lead goes to the plus and black to the minus.</WRAP>
+<WRAP group>
+<WRAP half column>{{https://raw.githubusercontent.com/LOM-instruments/Elektrosluch-Mini-City/master/photo/tutorial/Elektrosluch_Mini_City_guide-12.jpg?direct&600}}</WRAP>
+<WRAP half column>
+. **Now it is time to attach the battery holder to the bottom.** Make sure that leads are cut as short as possible, so they won't make accidental contacts with the holder. Use the tape to attach the holder as pictured.</WRAP>
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-. (Optional) **Cover the battery with attached LOM sticker.**
+. Cover the battery with attached LOM sticker. This protects from parts on the board accidentaly shorting on the battery metallic body.\\
+\\
+. **Check one more time if all the polarities (capacitors, battery connector, battery) are correct.** Reversing the polarity might irreversibly damage the circuit. Check whether the extended leads are not touch/scratchign the battery when placed in the holder. Attach the battery and turn on the device with the potentiometer (it has a built-in switch!).</WRAP>
+</WRAP>
-. **Check one more time if all the polarities (chip, capacitors, battery connector, battery) are correct.** Reversing the polarity might irreversibly damage the circuit. Attach the battery and turn on the device with the potentiometer (it has a built-in switch!).
+<WRAP group>
+<WRAP half column>{{https://raw.githubusercontent.com/LOM-instruments/Elektrosluch-Mini-City/master/photo/tutorial/Elektrosluch_Mini_City_guide-14.jpg?direct&600}}</WRAP>
-. **Check whether the LED lights up.** Plug-in your headphones, turn the potentiometer almost all the way up and **listen if you can hear the buzzing and humming of the electricity** around you from both channels.
+<WRAP half column>
+This is how it should look from the side.</WRAP>
+</WRAP>
+<WRAP group>
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+<WRAP half column>
+. Put the **knob** on the potentiometer. It requires a bit of pressure, make sure you're holding the pot and pressing it against it, not against the whole device.
-. **Now it is time to attach the battery holder to the bottom.** Make sure that the leads are cut as short as possible, so they won't protrude into the double sided tape used to attach the holder. They might otherwise create a short circuit and cause malfunction. Use the tape to attach the holder as pictured.</WRAP>
+**Check whether the LED lights up.** Plug-in your headphones, turn the potentiometer almost all the way up and **listen if you can hear the buzzing and humming of the electricity** around you from both channels.</WRAP>
 </WRAP>
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-. **Insert the battery into the holder.**</WRAP>
+. Attach the **front cover** using the 8 screws and 4 stand-offs. The front cover has a plastic film on both sides for protection – peel it off for more shiny look!</WRAP>
 </WRAP>
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-. **Attach the front cover using the 8 screws and 4 stand-offs.**</WRAP>
+. Eleketrosluch Mini City kits shipped at the end of 2017 and onwards have **extra acrylic cover** for the bottom of the circuit board. Attach it as pictured.</WRAP>
 </WRAP>
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 . **Voilá!** Enjoy your new Elektrosluch!</WRAP>
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